Zaragoza Itinerary: Plan 1 to 3 Days in Aragon's Capital

Lunch first, between 1:30pm and 4pm, then walk the Roman circuit. Caesaraugusta was founded in 14 BC as a river port beside an Iberian village, and five sites survive in the modern centre: the city walls, the forum under an alabaster-clad cube, the river port museum, the thermal baths and the theatre under its huge modern roof.

One ticket covers all five monuments and can be bought at any of them; it was reported at 5.50 euros, so treat that as a guide and check the current price at the first site you enter. The theatre is the most impressive and the hardest to find, so load the location on your phone before setting off.

Fill the late afternoon with the Renaissance courtyards that once belonged to wealthy merchants. The Patio de la Infanta, sold to a Paris antiques dealer in 1903 and bought back by a local bank in 1957, now sits inside the bank's central office and can be visited with its tapestry collection.

Nearby, La Lonja on Plaza del Pilar hosts temporary exhibitions with free entry, and the Palace of the Marquis of Montemuzo opens its narrow patio as part of a small printing museum. Both are short stops that fit neatly before dinner.

El Tubo is the tapas quarter south of Plaza del Pilar, spreading from Plaza de España and El Coso into a warren of narrow streets that fill up late and stay noisy. Calle Estebanés is the official tubo street, with Calle Mártires and Calle Cuatro de Agosto part of the same circuit.

Order the local specialities rather than the generic plate: a calamari sandwich, ham or anchovy croquettes, jamón batido spread on bread, the small sandwich known as a guardia civil with salted sardines, red pepper and tomato, or huevos con bechamel. Champiñones al ajillo and tortilla de patatas appear everywhere, as they do across Spain.

Eat standing, take one plate per bar and move on; the pleasure is the crawl, not a single table. Dinner realistically starts around 8:30pm to 9pm, so use the earlier evening for a slow walk along the Ebro rather than arriving to empty bars.

If you would rather plan a proper sit-down meal, the best restaurants in zaragoza shortlist gives you named options. For the dishes themselves, the zaragoza food guide explains what to order and when.

La Aljafería was built in the late 11th century under Áhmad al-Muqtádir as a leisure palace and is the standout Islamic building of the Taifa period in northern Spain. The fortified exterior hides ornate halls, courtyards and gardens, and part of the complex now houses the Parliament of Aragon.

The palace sits about a 15-minute walk from the old town in a residential area, so allow for the walk and arrive at your slot with ID ready. Visits are guided at set times and self-guided otherwise, and the historical rooms are unfurnished, which means an hour is usually enough if you have read up beforehand. Entry was reported at 5 euros, with free access on the first Sunday and Monday of the month, so confirm the current arrangement with the palace.

Spend the rest of the morning on the Mudéjar trail, the brick-and-tile style that Aragon's craftsmen developed after the Christian conquest and which UNESCO listed in 1986. Beyond La Aljafería, the best examples are La Seo and the slender bell tower of the Church of San Pablo.

Give the Goya Museum a couple of hours if Goya interests you, and less if he does not: much of what hangs there is work by artists before and after him rather than the man himself. It holds early oils, studies for major works and the complete engravings. Tickets were listed at 6 euros, so check the current rate at the door.

The EMOZ origami museum is the surprise pick, on the top floor of the historical centre building at Plaza San Agustín. It is small, it is the first museum of its kind in Europe, and it shows original models by leading folders; it closes on Mondays, and tickets were listed at 3 euros.

End the afternoon at the Mercado Central next to Plaza del Pilar, recently restored and one of the most beautiful markets in Spain, with a workable balance of food stalls and small restaurants. It is the right place for a late lunch or an early evening plate before the tapas bars get going.

The Puente de Piedra, known as the Bridge of Lions for the bronze statues at each end, gives the classic view back to the basilica. A flood in 1643 swept away its middle section, and the bridge you cross today carries both traffic and walkways.

Cross to the far side and walk the short stretch to the Balcón de San Lázaro, a small observation area that frames the basilica and the bridge together. Sunset is the moment to be there, and it costs nothing.

The Ebro is the river most associated with Zaragoza, and both banks have promenades: the old city on the south side, modern suburbs on the north. There are no boats to speak of because the current is strong, so plan a walk rather than a cruise.

Head downstream to the Expo 2008 grounds, most of whose buildings remain, including an aquarium, a convention hall and the bridge pavilion designed by Zaha Hadid, now used as a mobility museum. It is a modern-architecture walk rather than a beauty spot, and the cierzo can cut it short.

The alternative third day is quieter: the Patio de la Infanta, La Lonja and a long lunch. Note that the Museo de Zaragoza, which holds Goya paintings, has been closed for renovation, so check before adding it to the plan.