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What to Eat in Sitges: Local Dishes and Where to Order Them

What to Eat in Sitges: Local Dishes and Where to Order Them

The quick version

What to eat in Sitges, from xató to Argentinian empanadas, with the dishes to order and the Sitges restaurants and bars that serve them.

14 min readBy Tapas Atlas Editorial
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The short answer to what to eat in Sitges is xató, a salad of endive, marinated tuna, cod and a nutty pepper sauce that belongs to the town rather than to Spain as a whole. After that, expect two kitchens running side by side: Catalan rice dishes and seafood, and an Argentinian repertoire of empanadas, milanesas and grilled beef that has settled deeply into local eating. Budget for a mix of the two rather than choosing one.

What to eat in Sitges: the short answer

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Order xató de Sitges at least once, then build the rest of your eating around rice, grilled fish, croquettes and Argentinian snacks. The town is small enough to walk between the old town, the seafront and the residential edges, so you can eat a fine-dining lunch and a casual dinner on the same day without a taxi. Plan the day around Spanish hours and you will rarely queue. Beyond the table, the beaches and the old-town lanes give you something to walk off lunch, and the rest of the calendar sits in this guide to things to do in sitges.

Sitges has 10 restaurants in and around town in the MICHELIN selection, a useful shortlist if you want one properly ambitious meal between casual ones. Treat that list as a starting point for reservations rather than a ranking of the town's best cooking, and book ahead for dinner at the weekend.

Xató de Sitges: the local dish to order first

Xató is the dish that marks you as paying attention: endive leaves dressed with a thick sauce of almonds, hazelnuts, ñora pepper, garlic and vinegar, topped with marinated tuna and salt cod. It is a winter-leaning dish in origin but appears on menus year-round, and it arrives as a generous starter rather than a light salad. If you enjoy comparing regional salads like this one, Ibiza food offers its own island versions of fish and rice cooking. Order it to share before a rice dish.

El Castell in the old town lists Xató de Sitges on its à la carte and set menus, with a €2 supplement when it forms part of a menu. That supplement is worth paying on a first visit, because the sauce is the point of the dish and a kitchen that makes it well tends to make everything else well too.

Eat it at lunch rather than at night if you want the full effect of a rich sauce followed by a grilled main. Sitges lunches run from about 1:30pm to 4pm, and kitchens are calm at 1:30pm sharp in a way they are not at 3pm.

Tapas and small plates: croquettes, bravas and provoleta

Tapas in Sitges leans Argentinian as often as Catalan, and the crossover plates are the ones to seek out. Croquettes come in five varieties at Nunna, listed at €2.50 each, which lets you build a plate of three or four without committing to a main. Pair them with patatas bravas with aioli, or the heartier version topped with skirt steak, chimichurri and aioli.

Provoleta is the other plate worth knowing: grilled provolone, sometimes with sun-dried tomato jam or a squeeze of orange, served hot and shared. At Casa Nostra it appears alongside patatas bravas with homemade aioli and brava sauce, breaded provoleta and cheddar-topped fries, which makes a good table of small plates for two.

The tapas habit works best standing at a bar early in the evening, before the 8:30pm dinner rush proper. If a sit-down plate of croquettes and bravas is what you want, book a table rather than hoping for one at 9pm on a Saturday.

Empanadas and Argentinian grills

Empanadas are the cheapest way into Sitges eating, and the standard is high because the town's Argentinian kitchens bake them in-house rather than buying them in. Tanto Gusto on Carrer de Rafael Llopart makes 16 varieties, with the flank steak and provolone, pork in beer, and courgette with gorgonzola among the ones worth ordering, plus vegetarian fillings such as pumpkin with curry and tofu.

At Nunna, homemade empanadas are listed at €4 and a choripán at €11.50, which makes a full snack of two empanadas and a drink for well under the price of a main course. The Nunna empanada adds gorgonzola, walnuts, marinated fig and caramelised onion, a sweeter and richer version than the standard beef filling.

For a full grill, La Macana runs a weekend menu built around an Argentinian mixed grill of skirt steak, chorizo, churrasco, pork secreto, morcilla and provolone, served with a bottle of Rioja crianza. Its milanesa napolitana is the other plate to order if you want the Argentine classic rather than a grill.

Grilled beef in Sitges is generally eaten at night, and the Argentinian places fill up from 9pm onwards. If you want a quieter room and the same meat, go at 8:30pm when the kitchens open.

Rice dishes, fideuà and seafood

Rice is where Sitges meets Catalonia proper: paella, black rice, arroz parellada and fideuà all appear on the same menus, usually priced per person with a two-person minimum. La Macana offers a paella menu that lets you choose between black rice, paella, arroz parellada and fideuà, which is an easy way to try the local rice style without committing to a full à la carte order. Its seafood rice and grilled fish sit on the same menu as the Argentinian grill, so a mixed table can order both.

Fideuà is the noodle version of a rice dish, made with short, toasted strands of pasta cooked in the same seafood broth and served with aioli. It is usually the cheaper option on a rice menu and, for many visitors, the more interesting one.

Rice dishes take 20 to 30 minutes to cook to order, so order them as soon as you sit down rather than after a round of tapas. This is the single most useful timing habit for eating in Sitges.

Burgers, brunch and beachfront eating

The seafront has a reputation for mediocre, overpriced food, and the useful exceptions sit directly on the sand. Gaby's is a beachfront bar and restaurant where a ham-and-cheese bikini, avocado toast and a build-your-own burger with fries let you eat facing the sea without paying a premium for the view. Compare the menu boards along the promenade before committing.

Brunch has become a Sitges institution, and Tanto Gusto covers it from early morning every day with avocado and egg or bacon and egg toast, flat whites and matcha lattes, plus gluten-free and vegan pastries. Arrive before 11am if you want a table on a summer weekend.

A beach day is easier to plan if you know which stretch you are aiming for, and the Passeig Marítim links the main beaches with the bars behind them. Walk the promenade once in the morning to pick your spot, then eat lunch where you have planted your towel.

Sitges, Spain
Sitges, Spain Photo: humbertomoreno, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr · Photo source · License

Where to eat in Sitges: named places worth your money

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Six places cover most of what a visitor needs: Tanto Gusto for empanadas and brunch, El Castell for a set lunch in the old town, Nunna for croquettes and empanadas at night, Casa Nostra for pizza and grill with a terrace, La Macana for rice and a mixed grill out in Vallpineda, and Gaby's for the beach. Average spends vary widely from the most affordable spots to the priciest, so the range is broad enough to eat well at any budget if you check listings before booking.

Tanto Gusto: empanadas and pastries on Carrer de Rafael Llopart

Tanto Gusto sits at Carrer de Rafael Llopart 68, a short walk from the centre, and is the most affordable of the named places. The draw is 16 varieties of empanada made in-house with artisanal dough, plus alfajores, crumbles and cakes for dessert.

Order the pork in beer or the flank steak and provolone empanada, add a savoury main such as milanesa or lasagna from the daily specials, and finish with a chocolate alfajor. It is open every day from early morning, which makes it the reliable choice on a Sunday or a public holiday when other kitchens close.

The room is small and family-run in feel, so it suits a quick lunch or a takeaway picnic rather than a long dinner. Take empanadas to the beach if the weather is on your side.

El Castell: the €18.50 lunch menu in the old town

El Castell has been in the old town since 2003, on Carrer de la Carreta 21, and its weekday lunch menu is a rare chance to eat fine-dining cooking in Sitges at a casual price. The à la carte average spend is higher, so the weekday lunch is where the value sits. Dishes worth knowing include slow-cooked octopus on potato parmentier, red prawn carpaccio with tomato tartare, and the Xató de Sitges with its small supplement. It is open for lunch and dinner every day of the week, so the lunch menu is the weekday trick rather than the only option.

The room is intimate, with exposed stone walls, and suits a couple or a quiet celebration rather than a large group. Book ahead for dinner in high season.

Nunna: croquettes at €2.50 and homemade empanadas

Nunna on Carrer Bonaire 5 is a small, family-run room with an open kitchen, open for dinner every night except Tuesday. Croquettes and empanadas are among the cheapest plates, and the average spend is modest for a sit-down dinner, which makes it one of the best-value evening options on this list.

Beyond the snacks, the kitchen does grilled Argentine ribeye with Padrón peppers and chimichurri, skirt steak, vitello tonnato and a proper steak tartare, with cheese boards built around French, Italian and Balearic cheeses. Order two or three croquettes, an empanada each, then share a ribeye.

Because it serves dinner only, Nunna does not work for a lunch stop, and the closed Tuesday catches visitors who plan their week around the beach. Slot it into a Monday or Wednesday evening.

Casa Nostra and La Macana: pizza, grill and terrace meals

Casa Nostra on Carrer de Joan Ramon Benapres 28 is an Italian-Argentinian pizzeria with a terrace, handcrafted pizzas and a grill of skirt steak, ribeye and a 750-gram T-bone with chimichurri. It serves dinner Wednesday and Thursday and lunch and dinner Friday to Sunday, and closes Monday and Tuesday.

La Macana sits out in the Vallpineda residential area on Avinguda Santíssima Trinitat 28, with a large outdoor terrace and continuous service from 9:30am every day. Its daily menu and paella menu are both priced modestly, and it is the most family-friendly of the group.

Both places reward booking at weekends, and Casa Nostra's terrace fills first in warm weather. Its house-brewed pale ale, IPA and amber are worth ordering over a standard lager.

my dinner of paella, Sitges
my dinner of paella, Sitges Photo: theseanster93, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Flickr · Photo source · License

Gaby's: seafront snacks without seafront prices

Gaby's sits on the beachfront and does burgers, tacos, quesadillas, nachos and brunch, with a typical spend in the mid range and cocktails on the list. The bikini, avocado toast and build-your-own burger with fries are the reasons to choose it over the other promenade bars.

It suits a long, loose lunch with friends or a break from the sun rather than a quiet dinner. Expect music and a busy terrace at peak hours.

What it costs: typical spends in Sitges

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A casual meal in Sitges varies by venue: Tanto Gusto is the most affordable, followed by Casa Nostra, La Macana, Nunna, Gaby's and El Castell at the top. Set menus do the heavy lifting on value, including weekday lunch at El Castell and the paella and seafood menus elsewhere. Snacks are where the budget survives: croquettes, croquettes, empanadas, choripán and bikini are all small plates. Two people sharing several small plates at Nunna can eat well for the price of one main elsewhere.

Menus and prices change with the season, so confirm the current set-menu price at the door before you commit to a table. Sitges eating is good value if you eat where locals eat and avoid the first row of the promenade.

Timing your meal around Spanish hours

Lunch runs from about 1:30pm to 4pm and dinner starts around 8:30pm to 9pm, so an early evening snack at 7pm means tapas rather than a full dinner. The midday set menus, including El Castell's lunch menu, are a weekday lunchtime institution rather than an evening offer.

Kitchens that serve continuously, such as La Macana from 9:30am and Tanto Gusto from early morning, are the answer to an off-hours hunger. Everything else is best booked for the 1:30pm or 8:30pm sitting.

If your trip lands in high summer, the town's calendar shapes your evenings as much as the restaurants do, with late nights and street events around the Festa Major de Sitges and Sant Bartomeu. Check the dates for those weeks, and see what Sitges in july does to opening hours.

Practical notes before you go

Book the named places above in advance for Friday and Saturday nights, and plan around the closed days: Casa Nostra on Monday and Tuesday, Nunna on Tuesday evenings. Tanto Gusto and La Macana cover the gaps because both open every day.

Sitges is walkable from the old town to the seafront and out to Vallpineda in under an hour, so a taxi is rarely necessary for dinner. Wear shoes you can walk in on the cobbles.

If you are here in the shoulder months, restaurant hours shift with the tourist season and some places close for staff holidays, so confirm before travelling out to Vallpineda. The same applies to the beach bars, which thin out as the weather turns, and you can see how Sitges in september changes the rhythm.

Plan Your Visit

Start with xató, then alternate between Catalan rice and Argentinian empanadas and grills, and use a weekday set lunch for the one ambitious meal of the trip. Book Nunna, El Castell and Casa Nostra around their closed days and leave the open-every-day places for the days when plans slip.

Confirm current menu prices and opening hours directly with each restaurant before you go, since they change with the season.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What local dish should I try in Sitges?

Xató de Sitges, a salad of endive, marinated tuna, salt cod and a thick almond and ñora pepper sauce. El Castell serves it on its à la carte and set menus, with a supplement when it is part of a menu.

Where can I eat cheaply in Sitges?

Tanto Gusto is the most affordable of the named places, with empanadas, brunch and pastries. Nunna does croquettes and empanadas at snack prices, and Gaby's on the beachfront keeps burger and brunch prices reasonable for its location.

Do restaurants in Sitges close on certain days?

Some do. Casa Nostra closes Monday and Tuesday, and Nunna serves dinner only and closes on Tuesday. Tanto Gusto and La Macana open every day, which makes them the reliable choices when other kitchens are shut.

What time do people eat dinner in Sitges?

Dinner starts around 8:30pm to 9pm, and many kitchens only open for the evening sitting. Lunch runs from about 1:30pm to 4pm, which is when the weekday set menus are served.

Is Sitges expensive to eat?

Not if you mix it up. Casual meals at the named places sit at the lower end of the scale, and weekday set menus bring fine-dining cooking down to a mid-range price; each restaurant's own menu board is the place to check the current figure. The promenade front row is where bills climb, so eat one street back or on the sand at Gaby's.

Is the food in Sitges more Catalan or Argentinian?

Both. Rice dishes, fideuà and seafood follow Catalan patterns, while empanadas, milanesas, provoleta and grilled beef come from the town's long Argentinian restaurant tradition. A single table can comfortably order across both.

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